RIOFAVARA Marzaiolo (Sicily)
What a fabulous new discovery for us from the clay-limestone/marl terrain of the Noto Valley in Southern Sicily. Although the family has been growing vines for nearly a century, they really began to make and bottle their own wine in 1993. They look to feature a Sicilian typicity and the environment through their wines. The blend for this bottling is 45% Grillo, 15% Grecanico, 20% Inzolia, 15% Moscato & 5% Recunu, Cutrera & Rucignola.
CARAVAGLIO Salina Bianco (Sicily)
This is a white wine very much of salinity that is somehow captured from the nearby sea and continual sea breezes by the vine and grape bunches. Typically Malvasia with some Cataratto & Inzolia blended in. Salina is part of the Aeolian island chain, just slightly northeast of Sicily. It is an ideal white wine for seafood dishes, especially those done with Mediterranean flair.
SIGALAS Assyrtiko (Santorini)
While Assytiko is grown in many places, it really excels in the hot, wind pounded, semi arid plains of the crescent shaped Santorini caldera, especially those near the town of Oia. Part of the reason for the quality to be found on Santorini can be attributed to the unique, infertile, mineral rich volcanic mix of soils—volcanic ash, pumice (porous & light), volcanic tuff and basalt (referred locally as aspa)…….low in organic matter….(forcing the vine’s roots to burrow deep in search for nutrients and water)……and only averaging a meager 12.4 inches of rainfall a year. The island’s fierce and continuous winds does several main things—keeps the climate arid…….incessantly whips the light weight pumice around damaging young vines…..and disperses the abundance of sea salt, including coating the grape skins (adding to the resulting wine’s salinity, umami, structure & fullness). There is NO doubt that Paris Sigalas is the master of Assyrtiko and his is undoubtedly the most prolific white out of Greece.
Assyrtiko
These are old vines—60 to 80 years in age, trained in the traditional kouloura style. For this bottling, Paris typically does 4 to 5 months of aging on the lees with frequent stirring. This adds to the texture of the wine, frames the grit and character of Assyrtiko and compliments the innate salinity in the wine.
GIOVANNI MONTISCI Bianco “Modestu” (Sardegna)
There is NO doubt that Giovanni Montisci is the winemaking Yoda from the island of Sardegna. His 2 hectares of old vines are a little over 2000 feet in elevation, planted in decomposing granite (sand)-clay soils. The 60+ year old Moscato vines are alberello trained and result in a dry, fleshy, “other worldly” white wine, which is perplexingly wild, exotic, soil driven and quite gripping. 5 day maceration on the skins, native yeast, barrel fermented in 1000 liter tanks, vinified dry, sees 6 months in OLD 225 liter barrels, FULL ML, and then bottled unfiltered and unfined.
While these wines may seem to be somewhat esoteric, we instead marvel at finding these kind of stand alone white wines which feature indigenous grape varieties by families who have a link and respect to where they came from. Homage wines like this are quickly disappearing across the world…..replaced by recognizability, commerciality and sales driven goals.